Farflungistan

Pictures of Shiraz: First visit to the Vakil Mosque

The first visit to the Valik Mosque located or attached to the Valik Bazaar. The mosque, built between 1751 and 1773, is the best example of architecture constructed during the Zand Dynasty when Shiraz was the capital of Persia. It has withstood many earthquakes and invasions. The mosque is now a registered historical site and is no longer a working mosque. Many worshipers still come and pray here despite this and who can blame them. It’s one of the most beautiful and peaceful places in Shiraz and it shouldn’t be missed when visiting.

Vakil Mosque Colorful Ceiling Tiles of one of it's Iwan's — Bees Nest or ceiling of the pishtaq of Valik Mosque

IMG_20110911_065931 — Pishtaq (decorated entrance) of the Valik Mosque

IMG_20110911_065720 — Minbar that is made of a single piece of solid green marble at the Valik Mosque

Iran: What’s on Tap?

After a long hot day on the Silk Road trail travelers like myself are looking for a comfortable seat, good company and a cold beverage to go along with it all. The there’s plenty of beer to choose from at the local packy. They usually come in flavors like pomegranate, lemon, lime, mango, peach and of course original Malt. Most get it right by being deep yellow in color and get that light foam action when poured into a glass. The most important thing is missing – alcohol. There’s 0% in each can or bottle. The only thing a consumer feels if they toss back a six-pack is a sugar buzz and a stomach ache and a hang over the next day. I don’t even think that they contain any caffeine? I guess you would need to chase it with a strong cup of tea and a hit off the Shesha pipe to feel any mental adjustment. I was kind of hoping to find something like Kvass – a beverage made from fermented yeast and grains. Children in Russia drink it like soda even if it is anywhere from 1-2% alcohol level. Still too little strong for the locals in Iran and other Muslim societies.

Here’s a list of some of my favorites:

Delster Malt Beverage:

This was the first one I tried and couldn’t finish it. It’s a locally “brewed” non alcoholic beer. I wonder what “Cooper” flavor tastes like?

Persian Beer in Yazd — Iran’s own. Has a light lemony taste and very fizzy..not bad if one can find a cold one.

Istak Malt Beverage:

Gotta love their tag line – Go ahead “Drink & Drive” This one is imported from Malaysia where they love sweet beverages.

IMG_20110914_063659 — Least favorite Malt beverage but good if you are looking for a natural tasting Peach or Mango soda

Hey Day from the makers of Zam Zam Cola:

Hey Day Malt flavored is the closest to the real thing minus the buzz of course. It’s got the color, the fizz level and not so sweet taste. It’s made in Mashhad and the parent company Zam Zam is very fashionable in Malaysia. Coke and Pepsi were banned in Iran for a period of time and Iran’s Zam Zam Co. ~~stole~~ developed their own version of the cool refreshing drink.

IMG_20110915_042954 — The best near beer drinking experience…at least it looks like the real thing

Rumors around the hostel common areas say that one can get some sort of clear alcoholic swill if anyone is up for the adventure. It requires talking to many local taxi drivers, some cash and luck. Luck on many sides. First is not getting caught by authorities, next is not getting robbed and lastly, not getting alcohol poisoning since most don’t know what they are getting. Much of the alcohol isn’t from duty-free in Dubai but home-brewed and possibly moonshine or gasoline?

I was happy with my choices of water, tea, malt beverage or Doogh – a yogurt drink similar to Ayran in Turkey. Add a little mint…some salt and I’m set. I stuck with the acceptable drinks which will most likely not give a hangover or send me to the nearest hospital or worse.

IMG_19800106_010253 — My usual…good for the stomach after a big meal of kebab and rice

Ancient Persian Propaganda at Bishapur

The Shapur City or Bishapur is a city built by a defeated Roman Army and their Emperor Valerian. Shapur had many reliefs carved depicting his greatest victories in the battlefield and can still be seen along the sides of the Tang-e Chowgan gorge and under the graves entrances at Naqsh-e Rustam. Shapur is easy to spot since he is the largest and grandest figure in the scenes. The defeated are usually found decapitated with what remains lying under the hooves of horses and the living bowing down to the Persian mounted victors. Unfortunately, an aqueduct built along the gorge in the 1960’s and later removed in the later 1970’s made a distinct mark along the reliefs seen below.

Reliefs along the water in Bishapur and in the hillside at Naqsh-e Rostam have managed to stay well-preserved considering this was an area where many battles were fought, earthquakes frequent the area and citizens have put there immediate needs before maintainance and preservation of its ancient past.

Reliefs at Tang-e Chowgan gorge showing victories of Shapur I over Roman troops — Bishapur: Relief (similar to older relief of Ardasir I at Naqsh-e Rostam below) depicting King Bahram I and supreme god Ahura Mazda

Down the street at Naqsh-e Rustam…

The oldest relief (left) of Naqsh-e Rostam of Ardašir I and (right) first relief of Bahram II

Shapir I and his army defeated the Romans in the battle of Edessa – seen here in animated form. The romans captured Emperor Valerian and took the remaining warriors back to build the city of Shapur. Valerian spent the rest of his life being constantly humiliated and tortured here. Legend even states he was used as a stepping stool by Shapur when he needed to mount his horse.

Naqsh-e Rostam: Shapur (on horseback) with Philip the Arab and Emperor Valerian — Shapur, newly appointed Roman Emperor Philip the Arab and defeated Valerian along with relief of equestrian battle between Bahram II and Roman Ruler Carus

Naqsh-e Rostam: Achaemenid Empire and Murderous Sibling Rivalry

Valley of the tombs of four great kings of the Sassanid period

Naqsh-e Rostam doesn’t look like more than a few holes in the side of a hill of limestone. This hill is where four great leaders of Persia once laid to rest – Darius the Great, Xerxes I, Artaxerxes I and Darius II. These men lived at a time where brother killed brother in order to gain the power they thought they rightfully deserved. It was survival of the strongest or the greediest perhaps. Murdering to gain position became a common practice in the Achaemenid household.

These cross-shaped tombs look as if they were constructed at the same time since they are all built to almost the same specifications. The first Darius the Great – said to be completed around 493 BC and the last was built for Darius II – great-great-grandson to Cyrus the Great – around 400 B.C. when he passed. So, these were all built in a span of 90 years – give or take a few years.

Tomb of Darius the Great. Umbrella is needed to view in the hot months

Tomb of Darius the Great (son-in-law of Cyrus the Great 522-486 BC)

A few scrappy puppies stand guard at the tombs of Naqsh-e Rustam. They couldn’t be bothered on this hot September day in southern Iran. This impressive but little visited site is a 20 minute drive from its more popular stepbrother Persepolis. Darius the Great – son-in-law of Cyrus the Great was the first occupant of this Necropolis. The cliff side cemetery was his idea. His tomb’s was built during his reign and was completed seven years before his death in 486 BC. He had many wives but the most important one was Astossa who is the daughter of Cyrus the Great and mother of Xerxes I was king after Darius. Darius became king after Cyrus’ son Cambyses II died of a leg wound that was either self-inflicted or happened during battle. Bardiya, younger brother to Cambyses II, succeeded him but later murdered by a group of seven nobles who then made Darius their king. Darius the Great was best known for completing many of the construction projects started by his father in law Cyrus the Great.

Naqsh-e Rostam: Tomb of Xerxes I of Persia

Tomb of Xerxes I (son of Darius the Great 486-465 BC)

Darius’ son and successor, Xerxes I, grave is found next to his father’s. Xerxes I wasn’t Darius’ eldest son, but the only one “born in the Purple” or of royal blood. Xerxes fought many battles and is best known for building the largest structures at Persepolis, the Gate of all Nations and the Hall of a Hundred Columns. He also completed the Apadana, the Palace of Darius and the Treasury all started by Darius. He added on his own palace which was twice the size of his father’s. Xerxes I and is young son Darius were both murdered by his royal guard Artabanus the Hyrcanian.

Tomb of Artaxerxes I (son of Xerxes I 465-424 BC)

Artaxerxes I came into power after the assassinations of his father Xerxes I and his young brother Darius. Artaxerxes I lived until he was 54 and all that is known about his death is that it happened sometime in between December 424 B.C. and March 423 BC. He is known as Artaxerxes Longimanus. He had the nickname Longimanus because his right hand was longer than his left. He fought battles against the Greeks. He continued to support the rebuilding of the Jewish community in Jerusalem which had begun under Cyrus the Great. He died by natural causes unlike most of the rulers of the Achaemenid Period.

Tomb of Darius II (son of Artaxerxes 423-404 BC)

Vahuka, letter becoming Darius II when king, came to power after the death of two of his elder brothers. Xerxes II was the only one “born in the purple”. He was the crown prince and son of the Queen. His other two half brothers, Vahuka – later known as Darius II – and Sogdianus were born out of the royal line. Xerxes II was next in line and was given the throne. His brother Sogdianus murdered him 45 days later. Sogdianus lasted only six months until he was also murdered by the commander of the cavalry who didn’t recognize his rule. Historians can’t agree about what really happened. It doesn’t help that Sogdianus married his half-sister and both murdered sons Xerxes II and Sogdianus declared themselves king before their father’s body was cold.

In the end, the next brother, Vahuka or Darius of Ochus became king. He was the son of Artaxerxes and a Babylonian concubine, hence the nickname of Nothos which means the child of unmarried parents. He had a lot of help from his wife and half-sister. He is said to have taken care of things and got rid of the rest of his relatives in secure his seat. Artaxerxes I had 18 children. There are very few details of Darius II life. He fought and survived many battles and held on to power much longer than Xerxes II and Sogdianus. Unlike the two, he does have a place at Naqsr-e Rustam and one must assume he was a great leader.

Ka’ba-ye Zartosht

Is it a Zorastrian fire temple? Not a fire temple but an ancient flood light that eliminated the tombs at night? A royal tomb that was never occupied? What this building was except an uncanny Doppelganger to one found at Cyrus the Great’s Tomb at Pasargadae. Whether it was a depository for objects of dynastic or religious importance or tomb is a mystery that may be solved someday. Much of the area of the site still remains buried and there are many objects, carvings and perhaps larger segment waiting to be discovered. I’m looking forward to returning back – especially when it’s not over 100 degrees F.

side note: The sources I used to get information in this post was found from various places ranging from my guide Mahmoud to online sources to old-fashioned textbooks in the library. I have found the history about Naqshr-e Rustam or Naqshr-e Rostam has many versions. Please let me know if I have made any mistakes with the facts I have gathered. Many of the facts are ones consolidated by larger accounts found in Wikipedia.

Pasargadae: How Alexander the Great and UNESCO saved it

Tomb of Cyrus the Great copy — Road to Cyrus the Great

Tomb of Cyrus the Great — Passer-by, I am Cyrus, who gave the Persians an empire, and was king of Asia.Grudge me not therefore this monument.

Pasargadae looks pretty barren today and its simple remains says nothing of how great of a leader Cyprus was to Persia. The limestone tomb contained a golden coffin which rested on top of a table also made of gold. Tall trees, flower beds, pools and waterways encircled the resting place of Cyprus the Great. It’s called the “Four Garden” style today is still the prototype for Western Asian architecture and design

When Alexander the Great arrived in 334 BC, the tomb had been destroyed by those who wanted it’s treasures. Cyrus bones were scattered around outside of the tomb and thieves carried away treasures found inside. Alexander was outraged and ordered the thieves to be prosecuted and had the tomb restored.

More is still be discovered today at the site. Iran had announced that it intended to make the a dam near the site. The dam could have caused the area to flood and the dampness created by the water would accelerate the deterioration of the fragile limestone. The UN encouraged Iran to allow a team of architects from around the world excavate what they could before the dam became fully operational. They scrabbled for a bit in 2004 and uncovered many sites including a road that linked Pasargadae and Persepolis and caves believed to be inhabited 7000 years ago. The site became a UNESCO site in 2004 and things are looking pretty good for this site and many others waiting to be discovered in the area.

The Audience Hall of the Pasargadae Palace and the Zagroes Mountains

Persepolis and a few “Great” Leaders

Persepolis is an amazing vision and one has to imagine what it must have looked like before Alexander the Great buried most of it to the ground. There are many theories Alexander did this despite the fact that he did admire Cyrus the Great and didn’t destroy his burial grounds. He even went so far to find out who looted Cyrus’ tomb and even rebuilt parts that had been destroyed by thieves. Maybe he taking order and was acting in revenge since Xerxes did invade and destroy much of Greece – including Athens. Xerxes did complete his father Darius’ grand palaces, Treasury and gates at Persepolis. Other accounts say that it wasn’t planned but an unfortunate accident caused by overzealous and very drunk soldiers and entertainers. Historian Diodorus Siculus (90-21 BCE) who gives the following account of the destruction of the city:

“Alexander held games to celebrate his victories; he offered magnificent sacrifices to the gods and entertained his friends lavishly. One day when the Companions were feasting, and intoxication was growing as the drinking went on, a violent madness took hold of these drunken men. One of the women presents, Thais, the Athenian lover of the Macedonian commander Ptolemy, declared that it would be Alexander’s greatest achievement in Asia to join in their procession and set fire to the royal palace, allowing women’s hands to destroy in an instant what had been the pride of the Persians.”

Today there’s very little left but still what remains is a small slice of one of the grandest cities of the Persian Empire. Here’s a link to a great site which puts all the pieces together in 3-D renderings of what Persepolis did look like before it fell.

Here’s some more pictures of what remains today:

Persepolis and the Shah’s Last Party

Persepolis is where the first Persian Achaemenid Empire celebratory capital and 2500 years later the site for a hell of a party hosted by Shah Reza and his lovely wife Farah.

Gate of All Lands built by Xerxes grandson of Cyrus the Great

The ruins of Persepolis date back to 515 BC and Cyrus the Great chose its location and began its construction. Darius the Great first added the grand palace of Apadana, the Gate of All Nations and the very grand staircases which welcomed the noble and royalty entered when visiting the complex. Alexander the Great had most of the palaces and treasuries buried to the ground in 330 BC but enough remained behind for archeologists to reconstruct the site so visitors today can sort of imagine what the grounds looked like. It was Andre Godard, also the person who created the mausoleum for the great Persian poet Hafez, who was in charge of the excavation which began in 1930.

The Shah could really throw a party. He put a grand affair together for the 2500th anniversary Iran honoring Cyrus the Great. It marked the beginning of the end of the House of Pahlavi as history shows. It was easy for many who opposed the monarchy, such as the banished Ayatollah Khomeini, to gain support. This ended up happening and the Shah and his family fled Iran and escaped being harmed after the revolution in 1979 and Khomeini’s return.

Persepolis today is one of the biggest tourist draws of Iran. Some of it’s treasuries have been taken away to museums in the US and England but many remain here in the museums of Tehran and at the site itself. The skeletal frames of the Tent City or Golden City lie behind the tree line just north of the ruins as an eerie reminder of the not so distant past. It maybe reminds Iranians of the events that took place back in Oct 1971 and how the Shah became the “puppet of the west”.