Farflungistan

Your priced out of a trip destination and a dream, can’t afford Paris? Part Deux

Paris View of Arch de Triumph from the Lourve

An evening stroll along the Seine/Bospherus. A room with a view of the sparkling Eiffel Tower/Blue Mosque at dusk. This is a city where travelers can show up with no plans. Time in both Paris and Istanbul can be spent just walking the streets and spending time viewing art in small and large museums and later contemplating it all over an espresso/turkish coffee and a pan au chocolat/turkish delight in a cafe “you discovered” while walking through a neighborhood just off of the LP guide map.

Blue Mosque in the Distance from the western edge of the Sultanahmet Istanbul by Cori B (farflungistan) on 500px.com

Paris is not the only metropolitan city where people to travel to and spend hours getting lost amongst bustling streets and their alleyways. Istanbul is fast becoming a place where one can experience the cafe culture, romantic skylines, local cuisine and indoor art collections. There’s plenty of cute outdoor cafes that offer a comfortable place to have drink and watch the world go by.

Istanbul is a place for those who enjoy visiting cities that offer wonderful food, sites and views while keeping to a low to moderate budget. Gone are the days where visitors became instant Turkish millionaires at the airport currency exchange. Even with a few less zeros on the Lira notes, the cost of living in Istanbul is still 40% cheaper than Paris according to the Expatistan website. This means that even the budget traveler can afford a room with a view of the Blue Mosque, add a few more get a few more days to the itinerary and enjoy a few good meals. Maybe even pick up a nice rug if your bargaining skills are up to par.

View of the Blue Mosque from the room in the Sultanahmet Istanbul

Fountain of Ahmed III - Topkapi Palace Istanbul by Cori B (farflungistan) on 500px.com — Fountain of Ahmed III – Topkapi Palace Istanbul by Cori B (farflungistan) on 500px.com

Some basic comparisons between Istanbul and Paris:

There is no arguing that there’s no place like Paris. It’s a city everyone should spend time in and experience. Wine, art, architecture and wonderful sites are its big draws. Istanbul has all of these and more.

Rug shop in the Sultanahmet Istanbul — Cute kitty at one of the many rug shops in the Sultanahmet

Dusty dawn in the Sultanahmet by Cori B (farflungistan) on 500px.com — Breakfast with a view at the Side Hotel

CAFE CULTURE

İstiklâl Caddesi located in the historic Beyoğlu district offers cafes offering tables with many different views and offer that for a $2 pint of cold beer and a $5 plate of doner kebab with rice. It’s the section of town where you can party on the roof tops until 7am and come back later and meander the streets seeing the latest additions to Istanbul’s buzzing art scene. It’s also where visitors and locals go to shop for everyday items, find a decent internet connection and find a plate of cheese Börek and strong turkish coffee.

On the other side of the Bosphorus, the Sultanahmet visitors the opportunity to lift the feet up and lounge on top of a cushioned platform, drink tea, enjoy a little nargile while watching the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia change color as the sun goes down. There a number range of places depending on amount of service, atmosphere and there’s one for every budget.

Street art off the grid in the Sultanahmet by Cori B (farflungistan) on 500px.com

THE ART SCENE

Istanbul’s art is not restricted to just what can be seen on the walls and ceilings of many if the city’s mosques, palaces and historical sites. Istanbul is becoming a premier contemporary and modern art scene and giving other european cities some competition. Great contemporary and modern art works created mostly by native artists and can largely be viewed in the Golden Horn section of the city. The art typically references both the ancient and modern history of Turkey. Visual art, architecture, urbanism, the environment and cultural activities are highlighted in the both the large Istanbul Modern and SALT Art spaces.

The Istanbul Modern houses to one of the largest collections of contemporary and modern art in the region. The building was a former 19th century textile manufacturing plant on the Golden Horn and became a permanent museum space in 2004. The city is experiencing a cultural rebirth and art boom making it an exciting time to visit. To find out more check out this great article about the art scene featured recently in the NY Times.

Atik Valide Camii by Cori B (farflungistan) on 500px.com

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE FOOD

Paris is famous for its very sophisticated street food of sorts that consists of buttery Pan au Chocolat, Macorone, baguette sandwiches, wine, cheese and fresh crepes filled with Nutella sold by vendors on the Montparnasse and in parks throughout the city. Turkey tempts it’s visitor’s sweet tooth with taffy-like ice-cream dished out by performing scoopers, sugar-coated fruity varieties of Turkish delight and of course rich Turkish coffee with extra sugar cubes.

The wine scene is experiencing a boom like that of the local art scene. Many visitors are beginning to find that Turkey’s locally produced wines are maturing as small wineries are adding depth to the world market. It’s no surprise that Turkey grows quality grapes since the lands are fertile and it’s neighbor Georgia is well-known for their fine wine vintages . The grapes are local and the wineries are working hard to develop their brands and begin competing with wines from France and Italy.

Fountain of Ahmed III at night near Topkapi Palace by Cori B (farflungistan) on 500px.com

Istanbul is a great city on the western fringes of Europe. The Topkapi Palace Minarets and colorfully domed buildings of Ottoman construction make up the skyline. The haphazard singing of numerous muezzin begins at dawn and calls on the faithful to pray five times throughout day. Paris and Istanbul really can’t be trading for one another but they do share many characteristics. Unique architectural design that reflects the history of each city, a bustling modern and contemporary art scene and rich cuisine.

I first visited Istanbul in 2002. It was a place taken over by large groups of backpackers swilling pints upon pints of local beer in the Sultanahmet hostel outdoor roofs and patios. The city is still very good for those on a budget whether you travel with a backpack or something with wheels. Some of the hostels have changed over to boutique hotels but hostels are still in the mix as well as good affordable food and drink. There is even a street French Street located in the Beyoglu district if you feel a need to have the best of both Paris and Turkey in one city. Istanbul won’t disappoint.

Your priced out of a trip to Moscow? How about Georgia instead?

Mosaic of Stalin in the Josef Stalin Museum Gori - Georgia — Mosaic of Stalin in the Josef Stalin Museum Gori – Georgia

We all have a vision on how we will spend our precious days away from regular life. For some its traveling far from home to a place where most things are foreign. An evening stroll along the Volga viewing the red stars that light up the top of the Kremlin, Seven Sisters and St. Basil’s. There’s also the subterranean beauty of the extensive subway system lit with crystal chandeliers and elegant tiled passageways which look more like a museum then public transport hubs.

Intrepid shopping trips to the Vernisage in Izmailovo Flea Market checking out Matryoshki dolls painted with Putin and Medvedev faces, Lenin and Stalin commemorative Statues and other Soviet Kitsch objects.

Today, visitors can freely walk around the interior walls that surround the Kremlin fortress where former Czar royals lived in seclusion and away from the common people. Their ostentatious collections of jewels, thousands of pieces of cutlery, carriages, clothing and countless gives from allies are on display for those who can pay 700 rub or about $25 USD and no pictures allowed, viewing times are limited and just about everything is a bit irregular.

All there is to be seen in Moscow and much of Russia does come with a hefty price tag which starts with the visa and goes through the lack of budget accommodation. This is not an ideal backpacker spot since it’s impossible to just land and figure it out as you go. I guess if there is a will then there’s a way like but at an expense which would deter most vagabonds.

If a traveler has their heart set on a trip to Russia then the investment is well worth the hoops and greasy palms one must contend with before being let in. If not, there are less expensive alternatives which provide similar experiences with less of a price tag and hassles. Many former Soviet controlled cities offer a good alternatives for travelers looking for signs of the glory days of communism under Stalin and Lenin.

Tbilisi instead of Moscow

One of those is the lovely former Soviet satellite country of the Georgian Republic. This lovely country is on the move and could be a member of NATO as soon as this May when NATO holds their summit in Chicago. This doesn’t exactly thrill Russia and tension between the two still continues on.

Tbilisi lies of the banks of the Kura River and it’s hills contain medieval fortresses, parks and the larger than life soviet style Kartlis Deda Statue.

Kartlis Deda statue above Tbilisi — Kartlis Deda statue high in the hills above Tbilisi

Wonderful 360 degree pic by photographer Ilia Zakaraia he entitles: the Bridge of the peace at night in Tbilisi ,Georgia in Georgia
The ultimate Soviet kitsch experience – Gori, Georgia

The war is over in Georgia and it’s a wonderful place to visit. Travelers can’t find any better Soviet kitsch then the Stalin Museum in Gori, Georgia. This is where you can see the home of Josef and his family and view the 83 ton very secure custom train the paranoid Stalin travelled in while visiting his post 1941 conquered regions. There is much more to Georgia than birthplace of one of the world’s most paranoid and murderous dictator. They are still in the process of removing him from their past which includes everything Soviet. Mikheil Saakashvili, Georgia’s pro-Western president, is trying to get rid of all Stalin references and not so long ago finally had his statue removed from the center of Gori. President Saakashvili wants to continue to sever all connections to Russia’s former occupation of Georgia.

Stalin's Train in Gori - Georgia — Stalin’s 83 Ton Private Ride

Stalin's Private Train Car in Gori - Georgia — Inside Stalin’s Private Train Car

Craving Vodka?

Just trade it for Red Wine and/or Borjomi

Georgia continues in their quest to be known less for its conflicts and more for things like their fine wines, bubbly therapeutic mineral water and unique culture.The Russian’s continue their embargo on Georgia’s biggest beverage exports, wine and a salty mineral water with the labels of Borjomi and Nabeghlavi.

Wine is the blood of Georgians as vodka is in most of Russian citizens blood. Russia’s ban only makes both very affordable for locals and visitors. Vodka of all kinds is not hard to find and one of the few Soviet traditions that will be hard for Georgians to give up but the wine is devine and extremely budget friendly thanks to the Russian embargo and lack of interest from this feisty neighbor.

Medieval walls of Jvari Church Tbilisi where wine was once produced

Beehives in the countryside of Tbilisi Georgia — Beehives in the rich countryside of Tbilisi Georgia with the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range in the background

The Metekhi Church and the equestrian statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali

Soviet Metro Systems in Tbilisi

There’s nothing that can touch the beauty and elegance of the subway stations found in Moscow. The few built in Tbilisi which give visitors a feel for the signature look the Soviet designers were going for. Construction of most of these smaller marble walled stations was completed in 1966. Today, there’s no longer signs of Stalin, but they do deeply resemble those built in Moscow and St. Petersburg. The subway conductors and security do not allow picture-taking inside the subway system. I managed to accidentally bump my camera with this one below.

Tbilisi Subway - Republic of Georgia — Tbilisi Subway – Republic of Georgia

Budget low down:

Travel Visa:

Georgia: Free for most upon arrival

Russia: $130 on average and need to start process at least 2 months before departure

Accommodation in the city:

Tbilisi:

$40-100 USD/night for most hotels including breakfast and private bath similar to the Charm Hotel

Moscow:

$70-100 USD/night for most double with separate bath no breakfast at hotels like and similar to the Petrovka Loft close to Red Square

Meals:

Tbilisi:

Splashed out 3-course meal: $30 USD

Traditional Georgian Cuisine Menu:
– a glass of wine for $3.61
– a liter bottle of Borjomi for 90 cents USD
– a plate of 3 Khinkali for 90 cents USD
– a large Khachapuri or cheese bread for $3.91 USD

Meal totaling: $9.32 USD without tip

Moscow:

Basic Budget meals: $10-12 USD without drink

McDonald’s Value Meal: $4.99 USD

Cheap Eats listed on this site made for foreign students staying in Moscow.

Cities of Georgia may not have the prestige of cities found in the former Mother Land of Russia but they are easier on the wallet. The choice is of course the travelers. Travelers will find a visit to Tbilisi an experience to remember. Travelers can see where Stalin grew up and how the first Soviet satellite country to declare independence from Russia has fared despite continuous conflict after cutting loose.

Spring is coming? That’s what Chuck says

Staten island resident ground-hog, Chuck, says that spring is coming soon. Doesn’t take a groundhog getting woken up from a winter’s nap to be able to see that coming. Daffodils are already peeking out of the ground in Inwood Park and some cherry trees have blossomed in Central Park.

The weather is as usual unpredictable and confusing to all. The two famous groundhogs – Chuck of Staten Island and Punxsutawney Phil of Gobbler’s Knob – are only right a little over 30 percent of the time and can now sleep in peace for the next couple of months. Supposedly, Phil did see his shadow and let the highly disputable ground-hog whisperers, known as the Punxsutawney Groundhog Club’s Inner Circle, know that we’re in for another six weeks of winter. Our Chuck, a little more in tune with what’s been going on above the semi-permafrost or is he probably just using his common sense?

Late Winter in Central Park South — February 2011 in Central Park South – NYC

This is what Central Park looked like last year around this time and what it typically looks like here in NYC:

A winter storm isn’t out of the question in the near future and I’ll enjoy each mild day as it comes – mild or frigid. This time last year I was packing for a long weekend in Tulum. I think that I’ll stop looking for winter travel deals and use the money for the trip to Asia this May.

Table tennis anyone?

Early Table tennis in Bryant Park on February 2, 2012

Year of the Dragon Parade Celebration – NYC

Flying dragon at the Chinese New Year Parade NYC 2012

Year of the Dragon – NYC 2012

New York City is a perfect home for intrepid travelers. It’s the city that historically is known for its candid talk and surly abrupt manners or lack of them. And yes, Gotham has again been voted the rudest city in America, but at the same time ranks as Americas No. 1 place for cultural diversity. Can’t win them all. Of course, this is all according to Travel + Leisure Magazine. The cultural diversity is what makes NYC one of the top travel destinations in the U.S. We received over 50 million tourists in 2011, and I’m sure we are well on our way to breaking that record again this year.

Each weekend, there’s always a street fair or parade going on which features one of the many individual cultures found in one or more of the numerous neighborhoods that make up the city. Thousands gathered to celebrate the Year of the Dragon in Chinatown.

Mexican dancers at the Chinese New Year Parade NYC 2012

Sunday starting at 11:30am, there were big and small gold and red dragons snaking the streets, high school marching bands, Verizon and Casino sponsored floats, and masked individuals scaring away evil spirits in lower Manhattan yesterday. This is a day were children and adults can chase each other with spray sting and shot off countless amounts of confetti poppers on top of parade revelers without having to say sorry or caring about the mess.

Chinese New Year Souvenirs - NYC — Chinese New Year Souvenirs – NYC

Recycled Dragon in Sara D. Roosevelt Park NYC — Recycled Dragon in Sara D. Roosevelt Park Chinatown NYC

The streets and sidewalks get mobbed with locals and tourists. The scene at the corner of Hester and Mott is probably as close to downtown Shanghai as one could imagine when the parade was in full swing. Queen’s gets its go at the parade next weekend. The older rival will have their 16th annual Chinese New Years Parade in Flushing on Saturday February 4th at 11:30 am.

Happy Year of the Dragon!

Dragon face off at the Chinese New Year Parade NYC 2012

Xian: The Gateway to the Silk Road

Gateway to the Silk Road – Bell Tower in Xi’an, China

One of the best ways to see history in person is by visiting the cities along the Ancient Silk Road. Religion was the driving force behind many of history’s greatest battles, and the force which leaders used to expand their empires. The faces numerous cities and villages reflect the styles, ideals and philosophies of the dominant empires that have come and gone. Their sacred places of worship in major Silk Road trading cities – usually the cathedrals, temples and mosques – are the first places to look at when in search of history.

Caravans linked lands and their people from the east to the west as the roads grew longer and trade grew stronger. The various caravan roads of the Silk Trade Route not only brought goods but also new ideas, philosophies, art, food, and religion. The Han Dynasty (141–87 BC) began it all in the 1st Century AD when it opened up its doors to the West from its capital Chang’an just northwest of Xi’an in central China. It was the center of the world and a perfect location for China’s capital city.

Xi’an quickly became Asia’s gateway to Europe

The Han established Chang’an as the starting point of the Silk Road, but it was the Tang Dynasty who used the route to expand China’s empire and to advance their society politically, intellectually and commercially. The population during the Tang Dynasty (618 – 907 AD) grew to over 2 million – making this period the high point in Chinese history. Chang’an was up there with other cosmopolitan cities such as Constantinople and Rome. The capital city welcomed foreigners with people coming from Persia, Arab Nations, India, Malaysia, the Middle East and Near East to study and trade.

China’s Trade and influence expanded into Central Asia as they continually battled with the Turks for territory. Chinese art and culture – particularly Buddhism and poetry – began to proliferated into the western ends of the Silk Road and other parts of Asia. Many came to Xi’an to both trade and study. This is where the woodblock printing process first developed making the written word available to all. This technology is one of the many that began here and travelled to other parts of Asia and to the west via the Silk Road.

The Tang fought to keep control of its vast empire as wars broke out through the centuries. Natural disasters and rebellion gave a fatal blow to the Tang powerhouse. The anemic ruling party survived for a little while but was much to weak to make a full recovery. Their monopoly on the salt trade kept them going for a bit but the countryside was full of bandits who constantly undermined the weakened Tang military force. The king of the bandits and former salt smuggler, Zhu Wen, ended the Tang Dynasty by disposing its last emperor, Ai of Tang in 907. He established the Later Liang Dynasty.

Xi’an is more than the Terracotta Warriors found outside the city. Visitors should take the time and discover the beauty and peacefulness of the The Great Huajuexiang Mosque, eat some non-traditional chinese food in the Muslim Quarter and take advantage of one of the best free museum tickets at the Shaanxi History Museum in the land that charges you for everything.

Visitors travelling here on the overnight train from Beijing get dropped off right in front of one of the main gates that leads into the walled city. There are many things a traveler can’t miss when visiting. Here are three things any traveler can’t miss while in Xi’an besidesWalmart:

Eating streetfood in the Muslim Quarter:

IMG_4180 copy — Restaurant in the Muslim Quarter in Xi’an China

even if you don’t know what’s in it

Visit the Huajeuxiang Mosque which has both beautiful Chinese and Islamic design work:

The Great Mosque of Xi'an — The Great Huajuexiang Mosque of Xi’an

HUAJUEXIANG MOSQUE in XIAN, CHINA — Inside the Huajuexiang Mosque in Xi’an

And of course the Terracota Warriors after you have visited the Shanxi History Museum: After I left the site where the terracotta figures where housed, I wondered how many of them were authentic if any. Still amazing to see and the museum does a good job educating visitors before trekking out to see them. Get out there as early as possible since the picture light is more direct and there’s less people.

Terracotta Warriors…yeah..some actually look fake but they still are an amazing site

Xi'an China - Terracotta Warriors — Warrior waiting to be liberated

A Far-Flung Silk Road connection – the Great Mosque of St. Petersburg Russia

St. Petersburg’s skyline says it all. From the banks of the Volga the views include the golden cathedral towers of the Peter and Paul Fortress and the pointed towering Minerats and bright blue tiles of the mosque dome just to the right of it. Peter the Great wanted his capital to reflect the cultural make up of his vast empire.

The Mosque - St. Petersburg — Central Asian-style St. Petersburg Cathedral Mosque

Russian southern cities which lie on the Caspian Sea were the only real Russian ports linking the nation to the Silk Road trade. St. Petersburg is just up the Volga River from the trading post village of Novgorod. Russia supplied furs, honey and slaves to Muslim lands as far as Baghdad. The original route connecting the Volga River to the Caspian Sea until the 11th century. By the 13th century, another route linking the Black Sea to the Byzantine and Persian Empires replaced the original. This is the route workers travelled when Peter the Great invited all Russians to help construct their new capital St. Petersburg. This included the first large number of Muslims to travel to this part of the country. They were the Tatars from the Volga Region.

The Russian Empire connects the east to the west making it more Eurasia then Russia and covers almost one sixth of the earth’s surface. This being said – there has always been a rich cultural, linguistic and religious diversity among all of its people. Peter the Great had genuine interest in the affairs of the muslim community since Russia was beginning to extent it’s empire into Ottoman territory. Among many things, he personally ordered the first Russian language Qur’an to be published in 1716 to help welcome in Russia’s new subjects. It wasn’t until much later that a proper mosque was built for those how made St. Petersburg their home.

St. Petersburg wasn’t established as Russia capital until the early 18th century but today is home to one of the largest and northern most mosques in Europe. Csar Nicolas I gave the Emir of Bukhara permission to buy land near the tombs of the Romanovs in the Peter and Paul fortress island to build a mosque for muslim worshippers in the city. This location was important to the Emir because he wanted to show respect for the rest of Russia and to symbolize the Muslim citizens loyalty to the Russian Empire. The mosque wasn’t completely supported by all of the city but it was able to collect money from donors from inside and outside of Russia and was completed in 1920 after ten years of construction.

The mosque has suffered a lot over the centuries. It was shutdown by the Bolsheviks – like most religious institutions – and later used as a storage warehouse during World War II. The mosque’s doors remained locked through 1956 but didn’t get any major renovations until the 1980’s.

Today, nearly where a half a million residents and many descendants of the Tatars. The Great Mosque with its tall blue dome is hard to miss even on a foggy day. Most non-muslim visitors can only view the mosque from the outside gates since it is a working mosque. The exterior was originally designed to resemble Tamerlane’s Gur Emir Mausoleum in Samarkand, Uzbekistan. The inside design is a combination of both the art nouveau popular in the beginning of the 20th century and traditional mosque motifs. I didn’t see but pictures show the interior filled with blue and green tiled ceilings and scripted passages of the Qur’an. The outside views are amazing and maybe the inside will be open for visitors next time.

Its something worth seeing while in St. Petersburg and not too far away from other wonderful sites like the Peter and Paul’s fortress and the former Bolshevik headquarters – Kshesinsky Palace. It’s just a short walk across the river or an easy tram ride from most parts of St. Petersburg.

Efim Rezvan, deputy director of the Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography states it best: “There is no panorama of the center of St. Petersburg that does not show two minarets. And this symbol is not only of St. Petersburg. This reflects the country itself, and the dramatic history of the mosque reflects the dramatic history of the country.”

The Mosque - St. Petersburg copy — The top of the Mosque dome in St. Petersburg Russia

The best surprises found in Souks, Bazaars and Medinas across the Middle East and beyond

Much of what was the Persian Empire in the BC days were the bazaars which still remain to be the center of commerce in modern times in cities from Istanbul down to Yazd in southern Iran, and from Marrakesh to Xi’an.

Long dark covered alleyways with packed stalls staffed with smiling merchants waiting to make a deal or just share a cup of tea. It’s the best place to visit upon arrival. The protected wall of the bazaar give visitors relief from the outdoors and a glimpse of the cities past.

New visitors should take the time and see what they can find around each corner and inside open doorways of these ancient covered passageways. Whether it be a mosque tucked away behind a small unassuming doorway or a foul smell that lets you know how close you are to the Tanners Souk in Fez Morocco. The Tanners here have one of the oldest and worst jobs on earth. The craftsmen are usually seen waist deep in vats of dye made of acid (aka pigeon droppings), pigments and cow urine used to dye raw leather. It makes a nice picture if you can do it without passing out. The traveler is lucky to be able to choose to take pictures or just keep on walking like I did. Not all surprises are pleasant.

My personal favorite things about the central market of a middle eastern city whether it be called a Souk, Bazaar, or Medina is its hidden surprises and smells.

What the locals eat:

How much chicken costs in Marrekash Morroco — Price comparison of chicken Marrakech in 2008

The Pak Shuka in Yerevan — Local food in the Pak Shuka in Yerevan

Muslim Quarter in Xi'an — Muslim Quarter in X’ian

Local traditional tourist entertainment and souvenirs:

Local entertainers in Chefchaouen Morocco — These guys were very persistant..the shoes say it all

What I should have bought in ’08. Bling in the Souq al-Hamiddiyyah Damascus

Beautiful inner courtyard Mosques and architectural highlights:

IMG_4444 copy — Bou Inania Medersa inside the Tanners Souk

IMG_4761 copy — Rooftops of the Medina in Marrakech

Modern Life in an ancient place:

IMG_6023_1 copy — Afternoon in the Souq al-Hamiddiyyah Damascus

These are the places where travelers can leave the guidebook behind and just get lost. It’s nice to be able to do that once in a while.

The four Iwans of the Jameh Mosque of Esfahan

Jameh Mosque of Isfahan — South, East and West Iwans in the Jameh or Friday Mosque in Esfahan

At the first encounter, there is a courtyard of the Friday Mosque in Esfahan is composed of four prayer halls or Iwans, the east and west are similar in hight and frame but the west is more colorful. The north and south are much larger and both compete for who is fairest. Each iwan design reflects the time when it was constructed. The north and south iwns contain some of the original pre-11th century mosque. The other two brick domed chambers were included when the Seljuks began embellishing the mosque. The rebuilding and enhancements commenced in the 17th century and today the mosque is a standing and lovely visual history of the Iranian Architecture.

Detailed Tiles of the Jameh Mosque in Esfahan

The Jameh Mosque or Masjed-e Jāmeʿ is one of two great congregational hypostyle mosques in the ancient Persian center of Esfahan. Esfahan continued to expand and grow as a city of commerce and trade continued to flow into the city from the Silk Road. The first mosque was thought to have held up to 5,ooo friday afternoon worshipers. This original mosque was thought to be burnt to the ground leaving only some of the south and north Iwans intact. Some historians say that the fire was actually not a fire but just people being ordered to take away pieces of the mosque and use it for wood when the Seljuks first captured the city under Tughril Beg. Other historians argue that the mosque was in perfect condition in 1052 when the Tughril Beg took the city. Either way, the original didn’t survive and what stands here today is the largest and oldest mosques in Iran.

The Seljuk invaded and made Esfahan its capital with the Friday Mosque at its center. It’s admiration and prestige in Persia grew as both its royal and common patrons built and embellished the structure during the Seljuk period. It’s beauty and geometric precision in design make this mosque one of the best examples of Persian architecture . It’s hypostyle design became a blueprint for future construction of mosques and buildings in Persia and the rest of the Islamic world.

This grand mosque was originally built around the same time as the Jameh Mosque in Na’in. Today, very little remains that reflects the time connection. They both contain alabaster lighting systems for prayer chambers below ground, have similarly designed wooden carved minbar and they were both though to be built on grounds that used to be Zoroastrian Fire Temples.

Jameh Mosque of Isfahan copy — The alabaster ceiling windows of the lower prayer room of the Friday Mosque in Esfahan

Each leader and conqueror left their mark on the this richly diverse structure of beauty. The mosque was the first to have a four iwans which all face the central courtyard and built at various stages during the Seljuks period. Further modifications and additions to the Iwans and the surrounding interiors reflected the times and ambitions of each patron. The Mongols, Muzzafarids, Timur’s and Safavids all left their mark on the walls of the Jameh Mosque. It was the Muzaffarid ruler who get credit for most of the more decorative pieces. The central ablutions fountain is a replica of the Kabba in Mecca. It is used for would-be haij pilgrim to practice the rituals performed there.

The east and west brick dome were added on during the Seljuk Period. They were originally unimpressive brick and tile domes but both we decorated with tiled mosaics and geometric patterns by the Safavids These iwan are simple and appears to balance the rest. Behind them lie many prayer halls, finely decorated rooms and corridors connecting them. These are all later additions but the highlights are the north and south iwans which contain some of what remained after the original mosque was destroyed by fire.

The South Dome or Qibla Iwan

This massive and striking iwan was the first the Seljuks constructed some time in the years 1086-87. It was built by Nizam al-Mulk, the famous vizier of Malik Shah, and it contained the mihrab which is the niche cut out of a wall in the center of the Qibla wall which points to Mecca. It’s dome was the largest at its time and was built by Safavid architect Ebrahim B. Esmail. Inside the dome has been adored with Mongol-era stalactite mouldings and two minerats.

The North Dome

It is known to be “the most brilliant examples of what could may have said to be a Seljuk specialty in Iranian architecture.” The North Dome is more elegant and lighter architecturally to the southern dome across from it. It was constructed a year after it by Nizam al-Mulk’s rival Taj al-Mulk and thought to have a royal function. Inside it is filled with massive cursive Qurʾanic inscriptions beautiful to look at even if you can’t read them.

On this very cold friday I had a visit to a piece of Isfahan. The Metropolitan Museum in Manhattan has put up it’s collection of Islamic Art which includes pieces of the Great Mosque in Esfahan. There’s a few pictures of details of the Mihrab on display.

Great Mosque of Isfahan's Mihrab at the MET in NYC — Great Mosque of Isfahan’s Mihrab at the MET in NYC

Travel Life: An intrepid unintentionally picky eater

Have a weak stomach and can’t leave home without popping a few Tums Tablets? That’s me but I don’t let it get in the way of my wanderlust

Mezes in Damascus which were excellent and no regrets

Fresh fruit juices, grilled kebab, ice cream, “healthy” green salad, drinks with ice cubes and the list goes on. These are just a few things that I can’t eat when I’m far from home. The eating part of the itinerary unwillingly promoted itself to the priority section of most of my pre-trip planning. A few very uncomfortable food related instances happened early in my adventure travel days had a profound effect on how I travel today.

I have always wanted to see as much of the world. Still true but minus the visit to the local shaman with an interpreter in tow.

IMG_7504_1 — Food Market in Yerevan Armenia

A good amount of travel research time is usually spent figuring out where and what to eat a the next destination. The location of my hotel/hostel hopefully is very close to a good food establishment whether it be a grocery store or restaurant. There’s an added bonus if the restaurant is located in the hotel/hostel just for jet lag and precautionary reasons. When I am starving, have just recovered from another case of food poisoning or just got off a 30 flight I usually want a restaurant to be literally within crawling distance.

String Hoppers for breakfast — String Hoppers topped with spicy Coconut Simbal for breakfast in Sri Lanka

Pistachio Pastry in Alleppo — Pistachio Pastry in Aleppo – Worth the belly ache I got later

The back story and the naive beginnings of a hungry traveler

I decided early on that I’m not an adventurous eater – wimpy eater is more like it. I got burned trying to be like Anthony Bourdain. I was on a three-week trip and going to meet a friend of my then boyfriend who was in the Peace Corps in Bulgaria. This was a great trip in between all of my food mishaps that is. It didn’t ruin my whole trip but I just have memories and wasn’t up to taking pictures. The theory that everything bad happens in threes was proven.

Airplane food

First, minor but not so fun bout of sickness was a flight from Istanbul to Bucharest. I was having a pleasant chat with a Turkish guy sitting next to me. Lunch came and went and I was too busy talking that I just automatically ate what was in front of me. Maybe I shouldn’t have eaten that chicken salad sandwich on that Air Tarom flight. The gentleman proceeded to eat my travel companions sandwich he smartly declined. Lets say I missed a day of sightseeing in Bucharest.

Lesson: Bring my own food and don’t eat any meat/egg dish that has salad attached to the name on the menu.

Japanese Matsuri food outside of Tokyo — Not so tempting Japanese Matsuri food outside Tokyo

Doing too much to fast leads to bad things

Second, was the trip to the local doctor in Sofia. I had just met Kathy for the first time and she was wonderful. I realized that all the travelling from Bucharest to Sofia had taken its toll on me. I was feeling well and we had a long trek ahead. It was time to see a doctor again. In short, the doctor only spoke Bulgarian and at least Kathy was there to help. I was glad to get to a doctor after a very awkward back and fourth translation of my symptoms. He gave me some mysterious pills, I took them regardless and we were on our way. Luckily, they did the job. I was a little terrified to eat for a day and a dropped a few pounds. The beer I drank later made up for the lost calories. The locals here think that Rakia sipped while eating shopska salad (both very dubious) cures everything. I think they might be on to something or just like a reason to drink Rakia.

Lesson: Bring Cipro and think about eating just bread and bottled water after a long rail/plane trip. They are both available just about anywhere.

Fish sandwich cafes along the Bosphorus in Istanbul — Looks innocent right? Well they are still there a couple of years after my incident selling sandwiches

More food problems at the end of a rocky journey

And the third. The 2.5 weeks were filled with seeing wonderful sites and meeting new friends (doctors too) along the way. It was the last leg and the worst was behind me. A friend had mentioned that one thing you can’t miss in Istanbul is the fish sandwich sold on small boats just off of the Bosphorus. We found the boats like he said and grabbed a couple of dubious grilled fish sandwiches served in a very crusty bun. The fish just fileted, grilled and put inside a white bun with sprig of lettuce and slice of tomato. No sauce. I should have stopped after a couple of uncertain bites. The next day, I ended up waking up with a face that was so swollen that I could barely see in front of me. It was a pretty frightening sight.
The only real adventure was a trip to the local ER in Istanbul early that morning. The American Hospital of Istanbul is a comfortable facility and I highly recommend it to others in need of care – whether it be of itchy hives or other travel illnesses. One dose of Cortisone IV – $5M Turkish Lira – Relief from hives on my face for 24 hours – Priceless.

Lesson: Make sure to know where and if there’s an ER near by just in case. Resist those local dishes especially made with fish. Additionally, try to eat fruit with skin or properly clean fruit without it when traveling. There are many microbes that hideout on the surface of food and in liquids. They are are usually harmless to locals but could be deadly to those without built up immunities.

What can a traveler do besides just drinking tea and eating bread the whole trip?

IMG_6194_1 — There’s always plenty of chai where ever you go

We all have our weak moments when that chocolate covered banana at the street fair in Tokyo looks too good to resist and we want to try to eat like a local to save money.

In the end, all that travelers can do is take preventative measures, use some common sense and have a good time. Here’s a few things I think about and do these days when I travel that seem to help me:

– Be organized and plan the exact route on how to get from customs to your bed

– Get all required vaccinations and don’t be cheap on things like Malorone Pills

– Bring your own food. Remember you can even get food poisoning on the plane.

– Take it easy when you first arrive and set out a reasonable plan of attack

– Ease into the local food

– Stay hydrated and try and skip that glass or 3 of wine on the plane (these days it’s hard to resist after the hassles travelers have to go through to get on a plane etc.)

Stay well and have happy and safe travels in 2012!

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