Persepolis and a few “Great” Leaders

Persepolis
Perspolis (Old Persian 𐎱𐎠𐎼𐎿 Pārsa, Takht-e Jamshid or Chehel Minar) was the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid Empire (ca. 550-330 BC)

Persepolis is an amazing vision and one has to imagine what it must have looked like before Alexander the Great buried most of it to the ground. There are many theories Alexander did this despite the fact that he did admire Cyrus the Great and didn’t destroy his burial grounds. He even went so far to find out who looted Cyrus’ tomb and even rebuilt parts that had been destroyed by thieves. Maybe he taking order and was acting in revenge since Xerxes did invade and destroy much of Greece – including Athens. Xerxes did complete his father Darius’ grand palaces, Treasury and gates at Persepolis. Other accounts say that it wasn’t planned but an unfortunate accident caused by overzealous and very drunk soldiers and entertainers.  Historian Diodorus Siculus (90-21 BCE) who gives the following account of the destruction of the city:

“Alexander held games to celebrate his victories; he offered magnificent sacrifices to the gods and entertained his friends lavishly. One day when the Companions were feasting, and intoxication was growing as the drinking went on, a violent madness took hold of these drunken men. One of the women presents, Thais, the Athenian lover of the Macedonian commander Ptolemy, declared that it would be Alexander’s greatest achievement in Asia to join in their procession and set fire to the royal palace, allowing women’s hands to destroy in an instant what had been the pride of the Persians.”

Today there’s very little left but still what remains is a small slice of one of the grandest cities of the Persian Empire.  Here’s a link to a great site which puts all the pieces together in 3-D renderings of what Persepolis did look like before it fell.

Here’s some more pictures of what remains today:

Gate of All Nations
Gate of All Nations at Persepolis
Bride and Groom at Persepolis
Bride and Groom at Persepolis
Persepolis
Offerings procession at the Apadana in Persepolis
Persepolis
Inside Persepolis

Persepolis and the Shah’s Last Party

Persepolis is where the first Persian Achaemenid Empire celebratory capital and 2500 years later the site for a hell of a party hosted by Shah Reza and his lovely wife Farah.

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Gate of All Lands built by Xerxes grandson of Cyrus the Great
Gate of All Nations
Darius Defeating Evil Persepolis and Gates of all Lands

The ruins of Persepolis date back to 515 BC and Cyrus the Great chose its location and began its construction. Darius the Great first added the grand palace of Apadana, the Gate of All Nations and the very grand staircases which welcomed the noble and royalty entered when visiting the complex.   Alexander the Great had most of the palaces and treasuries buried to the ground in 330 BC but enough remained behind for archeologists to reconstruct the site so visitors today can sort of imagine what the grounds looked like.  It was Andre Godard, also the person who created the mausoleum for the great Persian poet Hafez, who was in charge of the excavation which began in 1930.

Persepolis
Remains of the Shah’s party tents beyond the tree line at Persepolis

The Shah could really throw a party.   He put a grand affair together for the 2500th anniversary Iran honoring Cyrus the Great.  It marked the beginning of the end of the House of Pahlavi as history shows.  It was easy for many who opposed the monarchy, such as the banished Ayatollah Khomeini, to gain support.  This ended up happening and the Shah and his family fled Iran and escaped being harmed after the revolution in 1979 and Khomeini’s return.

Persepolis today is one of the biggest tourist draws of Iran.  Some of it’s treasuries have been taken away to museums in the US and England but many remain here in the museums of Tehran and at the site itself.  The skeletal frames of the Tent City or Golden City lie behind the tree line just north of the ruins as an eerie reminder of the not so distant past.  It maybe reminds Iranians of the events that took place back in Oct 1971 and how the Shah became the “puppet of the west”.

Persepolis
Gate of All Nations at Persepolis
Gate of All Nations
Gate of All Nations at Persepolis

Pic of the Day: Shiraz’s Bibi Dokhtaran Mausoleum at night

Iran Pic: Fantastic view of the Bibi Dokhtaran Mausoleum from the roof of the Our Suite at the Niayesh Traditional Hotel in Shiraz Iran.

Great place to smoke some Shesha and toss back a few pomegranate Danjeh Aria’s after a day of touring Persepolis.

Hidden away in the mountains of southern Iran pics: Shapur City

Yeah…not what the Fox News is going to show you but here’s what really is found near the Zagroes mountains in south central Iran.

Bishapur aka Shapur City

Bishapur ritual alter
Bishapur ritual alter
Shapur City
Shapur City
Shapir City
Shapur City Madresa or what remains after the 10th Century
Temple of Anahita
Temple of Anahita
Ruins at Bishapur
Ruins of Bishapur with the Zagroes Mountains to the West
The last cell of the Roman Emperor Valerian
The last cell of the Roman Emperor Valerian

Trip to Iran: Shiraz Jet-lagged and caffeinated

The ride to the hotel is pretty much a blur. We learned that a light rail line would be completed sometime.  Construction started in 2001 and it’s still not completed.  I can relate since I spent most of my childhood waiting for the completion of the “Big Dig” in Boston.  Mahmoud also informed us his sister was getting married soon and he’s been busy planning and paying for the event.  We were not sure if this would delay travel but at this point whatever.

We reached the hotel before just loosing my mind and doing a total travelers freak out.  I’m not my pleasant self after 30+ hours without sleep and decent coffee.  At least the sun hadn’t risen yet so it seemed like we were just getting in from the occasional night out on the town back home.

I slept well for a few hours but hunger drove me out of bed.   The spread was amazing.  We feasted on fresh lavash, fruit, cheese, soup and a liters of water and tea.   I even managed to one more  good cup of coffee before I switched to widely available tea. We wait around the courtyard hoping our man Mahmoud would come back.  I sort of remember that he did mention returning around noon.  We’re stuck inside without him – or so we thought.  We were unsure if walking into the unfamiliar and beyond was wise at this point.    We ended up testing the waters and took a short walk about.  It was kind of like staying just playing in the yard and close to the house as kids.   There was very little to see and so we ended up going back to bed for a few hours.  I caved.

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I woke up and it was still Saturday.  I almost forget where I was.  I was in Shiraz – Iran.  My jet lag had worn off a bit and I was ready to see and do whatever was possible in what remained of the day.  At least if it wasn’t possible then the hotel courtyard would have sufficed.   It seemed our hotel is a Shiraz hotspot for locals.  The hotel has a tea shop/shisha lounge which attracts young couples looking for a good date spot and mingle with out-of-towners like ourselves.  I can’t imagine what this place would be like if alcohol was available.

The young guys here all sport gelled hair and have it styled the Rooster fashion – illegal I may add.  They have nabbed one of the best jobs in town.  They get paid to hang with friends, play Persian pop tunes until the early morning hours, smoke tons of Shesha, talk on their cell phones and occasionally get food and drink orders to guests.   I and other guest at the hotel get served. It’s not all bad since we get the opportunity to mingle with the  locals or in some cases be stared at by the locals.

Shah Cheragh Mosque
Weekend Shopping in Shiraz

After another meal, our guide Mahmoud showed up.  I was off to shop for some acceptable local gear.  The mall was typical except it had some moral police hanging out in the entrance way and only noticed them when we left.   There was a little light left in the day so checked out some sites before the sun set.  Shiraz street life on a Saturday night is something worth checking out.  All the shops are in full swing as families are spending the last hours of the weekend together.  It was the perfect introduction to Iran.

The club or hotel courtyard was in full swing.  The benches were all occupied with groups getting intoxicated on hot tea and Shisha pipe hits, the speakers were busting out Persian Pop remixes and foil covered hot coals were being spun around for the next smoker.  My head was spinning due to fatigue and over stimulation.  It’s time to call it a day.  All I need is a good pair of ear plugs and a somewhat comfy bed.

Pictures of the Tomb of Saadi in lovely Shiraz Iran

Saadi Tomb
Saadi’s mausoleum in Shiraz

The city of Shiraz is full of gardens and the tomb of Saadi is a place that should not be missed while visiting.

Back in March 2009 U.S. President Barack Obama quoted Saadi’s Gulistan in a videotaped Nowruz (New Year’s) greeting to the Iranian people in March 2009:

“There are those who insist that we be defined by our differences. But let us remember the words by the poet Saadi, so many years ago: ‘The children of Adam are limbs to each other, having been created of one essence.'”

He lived in the days where his homeland and surrounding regions were getting sacked by both the Mongols and the Crusaders.  He traveled the once lively Silk Road and lived in refugee camps populated with both bandits and Imams who had previously been wealthy landholders.  They were all ordinary people and his works drew inspiration from his late night discussions he had with farmers, preachers, former leaders of great armies and vagrants.  He wandered around for 30 years through present day Turkey, Syria, India and Central Asia and later returned to Shiraz as an elderly man.  He was welcomed by the ruler Atabak Abubakr Sa’d ibn Zangy and later praised him in his most famous works called Bustan.

Today,  Saadi was laid to rest in his garden and his tomb lies next to artesian well and surrounded by beautiful gardens.  It is a place of pilgrimage for lovers of Saadi’s poetry and literature written hundreds of years ago.

Saadi Tomb
The Marble Tomb of Saadi

The current grounds and mausoleum was originally renovated in 1808 AD by Karim Khan Zand. The present tomb was rebuilt in the early 50’s. The porch with its tall columns of pinkish marble is a traditional feature of Iranian architecture.  The visiting hours are from 08:00-17:00 and the entrance Fee, 3000 Rials or 27 cents.   It’s a great way to see Iran through it’s people since many of it’s visitors have probably traveled some distance to visit.  Take a little time and enjoy an icecream while people watching in the area around the well. It’s a great place to meet other travelers and pay homage to Saadi.

Gardens of Saadi’s Tomb
Saadi Tomb
Visitors of Saadi’s Tomb
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Tiled ceiling above well near Saadi’s Tomb
Saadi Tomb
Looking down into the dry well next to Saadi’s Tomb
Saadi Tomb
Detail of ceiling above the Tomb of Saadi in Shiraz

Iran Tour: the not so ugly four-letter word

Mahmoud and I
Mahmoud and I at the Jameh Mosque of Isfahan

We arrived in Shiraz in the early hours and there’s nothing like be greeted with a smile and have a car waiting at 4am.

The tour was going to take us through the center of Iran – starting in Shiraz and ending in  Tehran.  We decided to go overland the whole way for a few reasons:

  1. There’s no better way to see the most of a country then by taking the road.  We were hoping to use public transport but our itinerary didn’t give us many opportunities to do so.
  2.  Iranian planes not only lack the necessary spare parts due to the US embargo but they have more than their share of flight incidents.  It’s enough to keep me grounded.
  3. It was nice to have the ability to say that we wanted to stay longer or leave earlier.  The flexibility made it easier to make it seem more like our usual trips where we just travel vicariously – or at least feel a little less on a schedule.

Take the time to research and find a good guide

We were either lucky to get a great guide. Mahmoud was not only  a nice guy with a great sense of humor but a guide who loved history and his country.  We start at a reasonable hour of 10am, take a lunch around mid day, start-up again in the afternoon and finish the day with dinner.  He showed us Iran as we made our way through its historical sites.  He guided us through his home town of Shiraz and later to Persepolis, the remains of Bishapur and museums of Tehran – to name a few.  He never got annoyed by our questions and rushed us through places he has been to thousands of times.

Do your homework before going

There’s only so much you can pack into a guide-book like Lonely Planet.  A tour guide more than likely will contradict some of its facts.  It is a well-known fact that history is usually recorded by the victors.  Iran once known as Persia has a long recorded history and it’s people have had amazing military and cultural triumphs as well as suffered near catastrophic defeats.  Modern Iran is still obsessed with its past and wonder why they are no longer the superpower they were thousands of years ago.  The only thing he did do is make me feel guilty that I hadn’t done pre-trip studying of Persian history and culture before setting out on the trip.  The boundaries of Persia changed like the tides as they conquered and fell victim to foreign sieges.    Iran doesn’t disappoint especially when it comes to ancient history.

Khaneh Tabatabaei-ha or "The Tabatabaeis' House" in Kashan
A Friend at the The Tabatabaeis’ House

Be ready to meet people

We found that we could not go anywhere without being asked how we liked Iran, why we were visiting, and where do we come from.  It’s hard not to feel welcome in Iran despite what our leaders say and do to each other.  It’s easy making connections with  people on the street even though we had our fixer with us most of the time – we did manage to lose him a few times and managed not to make the headlines.

Tomb of Hafiz in Shiraz

The Musalla Gardens is where the great Persian poet K’aja Sams-al-Din Mohammad Sirazi or later more famously known as Hafiz lays to rest.  A tall pillared mosaic ceiling and slender outlying evergreens shade Hafiz’s marble resting place.

The works of Hafiz are influential in modern Persian society with its timeless themes, romantic dreams, and ability is a modern fortune-telling tool for believers. Metaphors and puns fill his works and have double meanings making them the subject of heated scholarly debates.  He composed numerous lyrical poems or ghazal and literary works that are full of artful puns and references to love and love lost and virtuous prose reflecting both his muslim faith and hypocrisy he witnessed while being supported by patrons of various ruling dynasties of his day.

Modern Persians still greatly admire Hafiz’s works and even hope they too can memorize the Qur’an at an early age and also be known as “Hafiz” or one who has memorized the entire Qur’an. Many admirers today quote his works and even have made Farsi pronouns out of some of his words.

Hafiz was born either 1317 or 1319 in Shiraz, spent most of his life working for several local regimes, and died in Shiraz.  There are many tales of how he lived his life and whether they are true or not us up to the individual.  Legend states that he fled to Yazd and Isfahan after falling out of favor with leader Shah Shuia.  It is said that he may have mocked other poets including the great leader Shah Shuja and ran for his life.  He later must have returned to Shiraz if legend is true.  This is where he died and a tomb (the Hafezieh) to honor Hafez lies in the Musalla Gardens.  The current mausoleum was designed by a french architect named Andre Godard in 1930.

A visit to the city of rose gardens, nightingales and poets isn’t complete without stopping by the Musalla Gardens in the north of the city and paying homage to Hafiz. To get to know his work is a start to getting to know modern Persia.

The pavilion over the tomb of Hafiz, with the memorial hall in the background
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The pavilion over the tomb of Hafiz and detail of ceiling above
Hafaz Tomb copy
Detail of ceiling above the Tomb of Hafiz in Shiraz

The Tomb of Hafiz is one of Shiraz’s most visited shines in all of Iran.

Visitors of Hafiz

Only Available pulge outside of Hafaz Tomb

Hafaz Tomb
Close look at the tiles above Hafez’s Tomb

WE HAVE NOT COME TO TAKE PRISONERS

We have not come here to take prisoners,
But to surrender ever more deeply
To freedom and joy.

We have not come into this exquisite world
To hold ourselves hostage from love.

Run my dear,
From anything
That may not strengthen
Your precious budding wings.

Run like hell my dear,
From anyone likely
To put a sharp knife
Into the sacred, tender vision
Of your beautiful heart.

We have a duty to befriend
Those aspects of obedience
That stand outside of our house
And shout to our reason
“O please, O please,
Come out and play.”

Hafiz

Day 1 and 2: JFK to Shiraz via Ataturk International

Shiraz Airport during the day. That’s the entire tiny airport.

Our ride from JFK to Shiraz and here’s how it went down:

Airbus from Manhattan to JFK (1 hour)

JFK to Istanbul (10 hours + 6 hour layover + 7 hour time shift)

Istanbul to Shiraz (3.5 hours + 2 hour delay + 1.5 hour time shift)

Shiraz Airport to hotel (longer than normal half an hour) ahh…are we there yet Papa smurf?

Total Travel Hours: 31.5

Drink up

Our flight took off two hours later than scheduled.  We got on the plane, took off and enjoyed our last taste of the west.   The guy next to me literally enjoyed his last taste.  He was busy getting hammered on Wild Turkey compliments of Turkish Airlines.  A could use a drink at that point but thought it wouldn’t be wise,  so I kicked back and enjoyed the in-flight entertainment “Jump the Broom” starring Angela Bassett and Loretta Divine.  Nice choice Turkish Airlines…where’s my drink?.  I didn’t bother bringing bans most Western reading materials so at that point I just kicked back, enjoyed ride and the movie of course.

Where Cash is King and what do they do with our finger prints anyways?

After that trip I was just grateful that Mahmoud was still there to meet us outside.  Getting through immigration took even longer since Tehran gets most of the overseas guests.  We needed to get the respiratory finger stamp and the guys at the desk fumbled around with the machine and quickly figured out how to use the thing.  While we waited the locals had a chance to give us the curious look over.  They were just curious since it was a crazy hour and we were two weary looking unescorted Americans looking for “It’s Okay to come into our country” stamp in our passports.  The guys at immigration were very nice and welcomed us to Iran.

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The airport terminal was tiny  and finding a place to get some Rials, Dinars, Toman or Khomeini’s – wasn’t difficult.  The only problem was that the largest Rial note Iran has is the 100,000 which is equal to $9.20.  We needed a lot of those bills since cash is king in Iran.  Our credit cards don’t work here.

We landed in the early hours of the day and I had a feeling that this information wouldn’t get to him in before he took off for the airport.  So it’s now 4am and we are heading to the hotel in our white Iranian Saipa 4-door as the sun comes up.   We’re in and the adventure begins.

Our Suite at the Niayesh Traditional Hotel

Our Suite at the Niayesh Traditional Hotel